I’m really excited to be writing this post. Kauai is perhaps the most beautiful, serene, untamed and magical place in the world. A land of stunning (often deserted) beaches, wild surf, lush forests and hidden waterfalls. Of rolling hills and fiery sunsets and untamed wilderness. I can’t imagine anyone visiting Kauai and not wanting to just stay there forever. You have to go if at all possible. End of post.
Of course I’m going to write more.. but I can’t do this island (or Hawaii) justice in one post.. so this will be my first intro to Kauai and Hanalei, including where to stay, getting there and practical tips to ensure you enjoy the island as much as I do.
Following on from my previous post on the seaside town of Noordwijk aan Zee, today I’m concentrating on two smaller rides (around 10 miles each way), to two pretty towns, easily accessible and just over an hour from Amsterdam. If you love beautiful countryside, quaint towns, historic castles and great food.. these are a must do!
“the most beautiful and best kept Medieval castle in the Netherlands”
Originally built by Floris V in the 13th century, then later destroyed, the castle was re-built and restored on the original foundations in the 14th century. It has a fascinating history of reinvention, reaching its “Golden Age” when P.C. Hooft (a well known poet and playwright from Amsterdam) became sheriff (drost) of Muiden, and guardian of the castle. After more restorations, it became a national museum in 1878.
The route to Muiden starts off by taking the tunnel to the left of Amsterdam Centraal station (as you look at it), then turning right around the back of the station and out along Piet Heinkade towards Zeeburg.
Just over 4 miles out of Amsterdam, you’ll turn right onto the Nesciobrug suspension bridge (below)
For those of you who are interested – the longest single cable suspension bridge in the Netherlands with an award winning design. Try and appreciate this when you’re struggling up hill in 1st gear ; ). Once you get to the top of the bridge, the fun starts, as you coast down the other side and turn right straight onto Diemerzeedijk. Then it’s a nice cycle through the countryside, with hedgerows on either side.
Its around 5.5 miles to Muiden from here through pretty countryside, over the odd cattle grid, with stunning views to the left across IJmeer lake to Fort Pampus.
Once in Muiden, we usually lock our bikes up on Herengracht, to the left as you come over the bridge, then walk to Muiderslot itself.
Time for tea!
Visiting the castle
The castle is open most days until 5pm from April to October. After the 1st November it’s only open at weekends. Full details of the castle, tours, & planning your visit are on the website, here.
We didn’t do a guided tour, but there is so much information and a lot of interesting artefacts in the castle, it’s fun to walk around at your own pace. There are lots of steep (and well-worn!) staircases, but it’s worth the climb for the view across the grounds and to watch the yachts coming in and out from the windows and the battlements.
The castle is well set up for children, with loads of interactive games and adventures they can take part in, as well as falconry displays in the summer.
Where to eat
We’ve visited Muiden about 3 times, and each time we’ve had drinks and food at Brasserie Herengracht. In the summer, they have a lovely terrace across the street, serving snacks (Bitterballen of course!), light lunch & drinks.
On our visit yesterday, we had dinner for the first time in the restaurant. The food was excellent and the staff are always extremely friendly and great at what they do! One of the waitresses has lived in Muiden all her life, and another waiter has known the chef since childhood so it has a nice family vibe. The chef cooks up some really interesting and tasty seasonal dishes (I had an incredible pate with sweet toast, followed by beet risotto), and there’s a good wine list.
We were told that in the winter it is very quiet in Muiden.. which sounds to me like the perfect time to go for a brisk bike ride and cosy dinner! The restaurant gets busy with locals & tourists depending on the weather, so they suggest booking ahead if possible.
Weesp lies South of Muiden, and is another great ride from Amsterdam, around the same distance, taking about an hour each way.
It’s a pretty little town which dates back to the 14th Century, and is famous for the production of cocoa (which gives the area its chocolatey smell :)), and its many listed National Monuments. I’ve only visited at night time (we like to do evening rides to dinner and back), but I will be going back at some point to properly explore the town and the buildings – watch this space!. You can read about the town on the Iamsterdam website, here.
The bike ride to Weesp starts off on exactly the same route as Muiden, but instead of crossing the Nesciobrug, you continue South East onto Kanaaldijk, and onto Weesp.
Kanaaldijk is a tree lined avenue which seems to go on forever! It’s quite surreal to be riding below the waterline of the Rijnkanaal (Rhine Canal) on one side, with huge cargo ships sailing by.
Word of warning – if you do this trip at night, make sure you have some good working lights on your bike. The path along Kanaaldijk is pitch black, and it’s hard to see where you’re riding!
While we’re on the subject of cycling apps..this is my indispensable phone holder (green of course!) – I can have maps and apps visible while cycling, and it keeps my phone very secure (you can still tilt it up and down but the phone won’t be going anywhere). I researched a few before I bought these in two colours. Not recommended for answering calls while riding! Also, try not to leave it (and the phone) on your bike when you’re just popping into a shop…ooops!). You can click the image above to link directly to Amazon 🙂
Where to eat
Café-Diner ‘t Weesperplein
This is a lovely restaurant, right in the centre of town, with an interesting interior – there’s a tree “growing” inside, giving a feeling of being in a cosy courtyard. In warmer weather, they usually have the large windows open, and there’s an outside dining area (although we’ve usually been in the winter!).
The staff are really nice, and the food excellent. They have a nice “lady” sized steak, and we’ve had a lovely German Pinot Noir a couple of times (Peter & Peter).
Recommended for a cosy dinner after an evening bike ride – and I’m sure just as good for lunch!
So, I hope this post inspires you to hop on your bike and go exploring! There’s so much to see around Amsterdam, and all very accessible by bike. I’ll be posting more ideas and recommendations for trips in the future – follow my blog below to be automatically notified of new posts.
As always, if you have any questions, things to add, or recommendations about other day trips from Amsterdam, I’d love to hear from you!
Any trip to the Dakotas would not be complete without a visit to the awe-inspiring Badlands National Park (apparently so called because both native tribes and later French Canadians referred to it in their own languages as “land bad” or “bad lands to travel across”).
It’s understandable that this seemingly barren and endless landscape of sharp rocky formations would have been seen as a hostile area, especially for settlers and native Americans. But for today’s visitors, it offers an incredible experience of beautiful landscapes, fantastic hikes and for me, it’s one of the most peaceful, relaxing and untouched parts of the world that I’ve visited. If you want to escape back to nature for a while.. and experience real quiet.. this is the place.
Getting there and things to see on the way
We base ourselves in Rapid City with a hire car, which is the perfect starting place to explore the most popular Dakota sites (Rapid City is also my favourite airport in the world so far.. clean, welcoming and passenger-friendly :))
The drive out to the Badlands is just over an hour on East Interstate 90. On the way to and from the park, there are a couple of sites we found worth stopping for;
An authentically restored sod house, the original home of Mr & Mrs Ed Brown, who arrived in Dakota in 1909 to homestead 160 acres (it makes me exhausted just thinking about it.. I find Homesteading my roof terrace enough)…
When you first go in, it seems like a cosy little cottage. But you soon realise that no running water, spiders running around the walls, living in basically one room with your whole family, not to mention having to walk to the outside “toilet”, would make it pretty miserable! On top of this, factor in a winter of constant snow storms and temperatures of -40°C, and I soon decided that Homesteading wasn’t for me!
There’s a nice visitor’s centre where you can watch films about the harsh life of Homesteading. I found it a really interesting stop on our trip.
Wall Drug Store,510 Main Street • PO Box 401 • Wall, SD
You literally cannot miss Wall Drug Store on the way to the Badlands, due to the hundreds of roadside billboards advertising it for miles and miles before you get there! By the time you get there, you feel like you already know it.
It has an interesting history, which is detailed on their website, here, and is basically a huge shopping centre and tourist trap. It accounts for half the space in the town, but, sadly for me, I still couldn’t find any chocolate milk, which I had a craving for!
It’s worth a pit stop to have a wander in the souvenir shops, where they have interesting Native American crafted items, as well as authentic cowboy boots, hats and tack.
Minuteman Missile Site
Again, full details are on the National Park website, here
Visiting a missile site wouldn’t normally be first on my list – given that; a) I’m not a boy and, b) I’m not hugely into military history. But it’s actually a very interesting site, and the visitors centre taught me a lot about the Cold War and the dissolution of the USSR which I didn’t actually know. It’s also a very interactive centre (you can get a picture of yourself turning the keys to launch a missile!)
You can then continue onto the missile control centre, and then the actual Missile Silo itself, where you can stand right over the top of the weapon which would have been on alert during the Cold War.
I’ve been lucky enough to visit the Badlands National Park twice, and we’ve stayed at Cedar Pass both times.
It comprises various log cabins, which have been recently renovated to a high standard. Furnished with handmade log beds, chairs and American quilts, you feel as if you’re in Little House on the Prairie – luxury style! The bathrooms are spotless and well designed, and the cabins have ceiling fans and effective air-conditioning, as well as requisite mosquito screens. I literally sleep like a “log” here!! The only sounds are crickets and the occasional rustling of small creatures outside.
The porches back right onto the Badlands, and sitting in one of the handmade Adirondack chairs with a cold beer, watching the sun go down, has to be one of the most idyllic and relaxing things you can do.
There isn’t a kitchen in the cabins – only a small fridge, coffee maker and microwave, and no utensils. After our first visit, we were better prepared for the next one, stocking up on microwave meals and noodles, as well as coffee and milk (and of course champagne!) on our way.
There is a small grocery area in the main reception centre, which has the basics, as well as first aid items, but I would recommend you bring what you need with you.
If you don’t want to fend for yourself, there is a restaurant next to the reception area. We tried it once for dinner and weren’t overly impressed, but as we’ve only had one meal, it’s maybe not fair to discount it. Be warned though, if you order an Indian Taco, they are huge! I only managed about half of one.
I recommend Cedar Pass for anyone staying overnight in the Badlands National Park. It’s an idyllic log cabin experience not to be missed
Hikes & rattlesnakes!
Of course, one of the main reasons for visiting the Badlands is to see them on foot, just as early settlers and explores would have done. Now, there are well signposted trails to make it easier!
On our last visit, we did two moderate hikes (around 4-4.5 miles each). For your first hike, I’d recommend the Medicine Root Loop, which gives you some really fantastic views of the rock formations, as well as some good elevation for stunning views across the lower valleys and grasslands. The vista spread out below you really looks like something out of a dinosaur or sci-fi movie.. as though humans have never existed on the plains. You’ll also walk through some of the mixed grass prairie, so you’ll really get a feel for the different terrain.
NB the initial climb up the rocks at the start of the hike (and coming back down at the end!) is tricky – even in hiking boots, as the ground is slippery.
I’ve attached a link to the hiking trails here, to give you an idea, but you’ll pick up a map etc when you arrive at the Badlands visitors centre.
Rattlesnakes – You’ll see warnings in the visitors’ centre and signposts all around the trails in the Badlands to be wary of rattlesnakes. At first I was taking the warnings pretty lightly… then I walked off the trail to get a better view for a picture… almost stepping on a sunbathing snake! I changed direction pretty quickly and I’ve been incredibly careful about where I put my feet ever since!
It was bizarre luck, or not, that I came across a rattlesnake as soon as I got to the Badlands.. you probably won’t see one as they try and keep out of our way… but you have been warned!
Snakes aside – the only footwear I would recommend for going to the Badlands are proper hiking shoes or boots!
So I hope this post has given you a bit of an insight into the incredible Badlands area. As Dakota is a very important place for me, expect more posts on recommended activities and where to stay.. including Mount Rushmore and the Crazy Horse Memorial – the very thing that drew me to the Dakotas in the first place.
As always, I’d love to hear your comments if you’ve been to the places I’m blogging about, or any questions you have if you’re intending to visit.
Roof terraces, shopping, lazy beach days, and of course, tapas!
Barcelona is one of my favourite cities in the world. After the horrific attacks in the city less than two weeks ago, I’ll admit it was with a little trepidation that I travelled there as planned, last week. But, when I thought about Barcelona, a place the means so much to me personally, I knew that I should and would definitely travel there. Although still raw from the atrocious events, it’s clear to me that the heart and spirit of Barcelona will not be so easily damaged.
While perhaps a little quieter than I would expect at the end of August, it was as beautiful, sunny and eclectic as ever.
Where we stayed
Hotel Omm, Carrer del Rosselló, 265, 08008 Barcelona
A departure from our usual hotel in Barcelona (the H10 Metropolitan), as we like to mix it up a little! It’s in a fantastic location, just off Passeig de Gracia, one of the major avenues in Barcelona for shopping (both designer & high street) and architecture.
Opened in 2003, the design of the hotel is typically modern, with a nod to the luxury travel of the 1960s (think Mad Men style sofas, leather wing chairs, polished dark wood floors & designer lighting).
The check in process was efficient, and the staff were friendly and helpful throughout the stay.
Our room was on the 6th floor, one below the roof terrace & pool area. The room was spacious and modern, with a large open plan bathroom (behind a partial wall), and another bathroom on the other side with toilet and shower (this room had a door!) There were two small balconies with a fantastic corner view of the Passeig de Gracia.
Aside from occasional cigarette smoke coming into our room from somewhere (possibly the terrace upstairs), and the awkward layout of toilet/bathroom areas, the room was lovely, and of the standard I would expect.
A big selling point of Hotel Omm is the Roof Terrace & Roca Bar on the 7th floor. There’s a small pool area, sofas for lounging and table seating, overlooking Gaudi’s La Pedrera. The perfect spot for sunning yourself with a cocktail and snack and watching the world go by. I personally recommend the wild rice with vegetables, curry, coconut and shrimps. My one bit of feedback would be that I would love to see the staff up there smile a bit more!
Hotel Eurostars Grand Marina, Moll de Barcelona, s/n, 08039 Barcelona
After deciding to spend a spontaneous extra night in Barcelona (it’s very hard to leave!), we booked this hotel online, literally last minute, and hopped in a taxi. Location wise, it couldn’t be more different than the Hotel Omm, situated right on the Port Vell marina.
It’s also on a much bigger scale, a large complex set around a huge central terraced area. It’s almost hard to know where the huge cruise ships end and the Eurostars Hotel begins!
The hotel has the feel of being used more by corporate or large tourist groups. Again, very different to the slightly more luxurious, intimate feel of the Hotel Omm.
The room was again on the 6th floor, with a view over the large central area (shown above), which seemed mostly deserted at the time! The room itself was spacious and modern.
N.B. We were initially allocated a smoking room on a smoking floor in error. We called reception and then went back down, where they immediately found us an alternative room and were very apologetic.
I saw on TripAdvisor that this had also happened to someone else, so I would recommend you double check that they know your requirements, whether smoking or not.
The roof terrace of the hotel has a sun deck and small pool and bar, and is fantastic for a spot of sunbathing! Again, it feels a bit like being on the deck of a cruise ship, and as you’re right in the marina, you are also overlooking the huge cruise liners. There’s a small library of books, towels provided and a changing room.
I would recommend this hotel if you’re looking for a standard 5 star hotel experience, with good service, convenient to the beach and marina area. It’s not for those looking for a luxury boutique hotel. I will definitely stay there again to explore this area more, and make use of the roof terrace! Also had excellent room service breakfast.
Where we dined
Roca Moo @ Hotel Omm, Carrer del Rosselló, 265
“Roca Moo, gastronomic restaurant with a Michelin star, offers creative Catalan cuisine under the direction of chef Juan Pretel and the unconditional support of the Roca brothers” (Hotel Omm website)
The design of the restaurant is luxurious and refined, decorated in opulent dark colours. There are around 10 tables, so it’s quite an intimate space.
At Roca Moo you have a choice of two tasting menus, one slightly longer (and more fishy!) than the other. I’m sometimes wary of tasting menus, because although the portions are generally small for each course (and I’m always hungry!), the mix of all the different rich foods and wine can just be a bit much by around the 5th course!
We chose the classic tasting menu, and we were assured that the portions were perfect, and the food wasn’t too heavy, so you would be able to eat it without feeling too full. The staff were very helpful with the menu choice and our wine choice (we decided on one bottle of Coma Blanca 2005, rather than the wine flight).
The Golden Egg..before
I can honestly say this was one of the best experiences of a Michelin restaurant I’ve had. The food was indeed in perfect portions, with beautiful flavour combinations, and, while inventive (e.g. the “golden egg”!), wasn’t too theatrical, as it sometimes can be. Each course was well timed and delicious.
Highly recommended for a luxurious dining experience, with fantastic menu of fresh and interesting dishes. I will be back!
We booked this restaurant the same evening we arrived at the Eurostars hotel. As we were having a spontaneous extra night, we hadn’t booked anything special, and we were happy to stay in the hotel complex.
I was pleasantly surprised by this restaurant and the quality of food. The design of the restaurant is elegant and opulent. There were only two other diners when we arrived, who were finishing their meal, so we ended up having private dining for two!
I had a starter and main (stuffed ravioli followed by sea bass), both of which were delicious, and nice portion sizes. The menu has some really interesting dishes, and I will definitely return to sample some more! I was too busy eating to take pictures, but take my word for it!
And finally.. anyone for tapas?!
Obviously it would be a terrible crime to go to Barcelona and not eat your own weight in tapas! I could happily live on tapas dishes, and we find ourselves going to our favourite places at least a couple of times on each visit.
Two of my favourites;
Tapas 24, Calle Diputació, 269 (just off Passeig de Gracia)
Run by Carles Abellan, this is a bustling basement tapas restaurant, serving delicious traditional dishes with a twist, as well as more unusual ones. You can sit either around the kitchen area at the bar, watching the magic happen, or on high tables along the side. The staff are friendly, efficient, and of course fluent in English. We recognise most of them each time we visit – it’s nice to see the turnover isn’t too high!
We have always found the perfect time to visit is for a late lunch/early dinner around 4pm. Otherwise it can get pretty full, especially with workers on a lunch break.
Recommended for fantastic tapas, great service and relaxing experience after a day of shopping and sight seeing- as well as a very nice Albarino!
Tapa Tapa Xiringuito, Carrer de Pontevedra, 56
Part of the TapaTapa chain, I’m sure food purists will roll their eyes, but it happens to be one of my favourite places in Barcelona. Fantastic tapas (including smashed eggs & ham, which is amazing), great service, and a picture menu showing all the amazing food you can order – so you can just point at things and they magically appear at your table! My kind of place. I try to do that at home but it doesn’t always work 😦
We always have a bottle of chilled Martin Codax Albariño alongside the tapas.
A perfect spot for a late relaxing lunch after an afternoon on the beach 🙂
In my next post about Barcelona, I’ll be reviewing more hotels, as well as talking about a trip to Montjuïc Castle, which is a must do!
“To build a city where it is impossible to build a city is madness in itself, but to build there one of the most elegant and grandest of cities is the madness of genius.” Alexander Herzen
Before I ever visited Venice, I had in my mind a beautiful and powerful city, of merchants and gondoliers and opera and art. A place from a bygone era, of great beauty and romance. I couldn’t wait to cross the quiet bridges in the evening, cutting through narrow alley ways on the way to a secret opera, dine in opulent surroundings overlooking the canals and wake to the beautiful sound of the water gently lapping outside my Juliet balcony.
Sounds a little unrealistic? Think again.. Venice can give you all those things and more. Especially if you visit out of season. In this post I’ll be writing about the hotel and restaurants I recommend, as well as a very special opera performance that is a must do if you are in town at the right time…
Where we stay
Boscolo Venezia (part of the Marriott Autograph Collection), Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500, 30121 Venezia
We always get a private water taxi from the airport directly to the Boscolo hotel. Previously I’ve booked these in advance online, but there’s no real need to. As long as you’re at the official water taxi rank, they’re regulated, so can’t overcharge you. The one way trip should cost around €120. I’m always enjoying feeling like a Bond girl too much to notice how long it takes, but I think its around 15-20 mins! The driver will drop you and your luggage right outside the hotel doors (stilettos not recommended for getting in and out of the boat – although I wore them and I was fine!)
The hotel itself is set in an antique mansion, beautifully restored to a very luxurious standard, while recreating the opulent Venetian style of the 18th century. It’s in a very quiet part of Venice, which is lovely to walk around without the crowds. We’ve walked back to the Boscolo many evenings and felt like we had the city to ourselves.
We have stayed in Deluxe rooms and a Superior rooms. All were superb, and were right on the water. One of them had its own jetty, where we were dropped off after a trip to nearby Murano! The rooms and hotel are incredibly quiet, and very respectful of privacy. The room service is also excellent.
I highly recommend the Boscolo for the friendly staff, beautiful hotel, and location
Where we dined
Ristorante Fiaschetteria Toscana, Cannaregio 5719, Salizada S. Giovanni Grisostomo, 30121 Venezia
It’s easy to walk past this little restaurant on your way to or from the Rialto Bridge, without really noticing, as it has an unassuming facade. Don’t let that fool you – the food and service are first class. It’s become one of our favourite restaurants in Venice.
It’s been run by the Busatto family since the 1950s, and has retained its casual, family atmosphere.
The pasta dishes are some of the best I’ve had in Italy, and the fish is as fresh as it comes, creating an incredible display at the front of the restaurant.
The waiters will be happy to suggest a specific fish for you, and cook it in a simple and delicious way, with fresh vegetables. There is also a fantastic wine list & beautiful desserts.
Highly recommended for fresh delicious seafood and pasta in a friendly atmosphere
We first happened upon this restaurant when looking for a late dinner after an opera performance – and it couldn’t have been a more perfect setting. We sat towards the back of the restaurant, in a window next to the canal and had some lovely food and wine in the opulent Venetian surroundings.
The Bistrot has been around since 1993, but feels as though it’s been there forever. It’s beautifully decorated, with very attentive and knowledgable staff.
Bistrot de Venice has an incredible list of over 300 Italian & French wines (they also sell some of them online for shipment worldwide), and are recommended highly by TripAdvisor and Michelin. And me!
We have managed to get a table twice without a reservation, but that was after 10pm, and low season, so it’s probably advisable to book if you’re heading there earlier.
L’Alcova Restaurant @ Ca’Sagredo Hotel
The Ca’Sagredo Hotel is one of the Small Luxury Hotels (SLH) group (I reviewed the Lord Byron Hotel in Rome in a previous post), and I imagine is a beautiful place to stay. If I ever stay there for a change, I will let you know!
The L’Alcova Restaurant is intimate and refined, overlooking the Grand Canal and opposite the Rialto Market. We have always had the same table with a view of the water, as it’s our preferred spot.
The extensive menu has everything from traditional Italian pasta, to fresh fish from the markets, and specific Venetian dishes. Being Venice, most of the choices are fish and seafood based, and very well presented.
Pre-dinner bubbly @ Ca’Sagredo Hotel
We’ve had a couple of really lovely experiences here, and then one which wasn’t great. There were different staff, and the service and food just wasn’t up to the standard we had expected from previous visits. There wasn’t anyone there with knowledge of the wine list, and, especially at this price point, we would expect better.
I gave honest feedback to the Manager about our last visit, and received a very polite response, and a promise to use the feedback and improve things. We’re going to re-visit on the next trip to Venice, so watch this space!
I found out about the Musica a Palazzo on our 2nd trip to Venice, and I’ve now seen two of their three performances; La Traviata and Rigoletto. The operas take place in the Palazzo Barbarigo Minotto, an incredible 15th Century palace on the Grand Canal.
The opera performers and orchestra move around the beautiful rooms of the palace with each act, and the audience moves with them. There is a short break for a glass of bubbly after the first act : ) As the audience size is small, it creates an intimate and interactive experience, which for me adds to the emotive experience of the opera.
I’ve seen La Traviata in the Royal Opera House in London, and to me this performance was just as professional and moving.
The performances take place on set days each week. The link above will take you to the website and full details. You need to pay a fee for membership of the Musica a Palazzo, which is €70 per person, and covers all opera performances you see at the Palazzo for a year.
This is a must do in my opinion when you’re in Venice. Book as far in advance as you can – the performances have been full both times I’ve been
In my next post about Venice, I’ll be talking about museums, palaces and of course, the San Marco Campanile!
If I’m honest, before I moved to Amsterdam, beautiful beaches weren’t the first thing that would spring to mind when someone mentioned Holland or the Netherlands. But beautiful beaches there are – and Noordwijk is said to be the finest. It’s a very pretty town and a lovely ride from Amsterdam – perfect for a long weekend break away from the city.
The bike ride from Amsterdam to Noordwijk is around 30 miles each way. It’s a fair distance, which takes us around 3hrs, give or take (if we only have a small tea & snack break on the way).
It’s a nice idea to stop for lunch or take some with you, to break up the ride a bit. Remember, I’m doing these rides on a Dutch City bike, which is built like a tank, so I’m more than happy to let the serious road bikers cruise past me with their heads down. I don’t think I’ll be setting any land speed records!
When we visited Noordwijk in May this year, we rode via Keukenhof to see the tulips. It was a beautiful way to take a break on the ride… I’ll talk about Keukenhof in a separate post.
The route to Noordwijk takes you out of Amsterdam through the Nieuw-West area (not the nicest part of Amsterdam, by any means, but you’ll soon be out in the countryside). Then you can choose to go through Haarlem, or through Hoofddorp, and close to Schipol Airport (having tried both ways, we prefer to go via the airport route).
As you approach Noordwijk, and turn into the dunes, you’ve done around 25 miles, and you’re probably feeling pretty tired. Don’t give up though – this is the best part of the ride! You’ll ride on tracks through sandy dunes, beautiful evergreen forest and past a golf course, almost certainly spotting some of the resident herds of deer up close. Then finally dropping down into the pretty town of Noordwijk.
Where we stayed
Hotel van Oranje, Autograph Collection, Kon. Wilhelmina Boulevard 20, 2202 GV Noordwijk
A stunning example of one of the Marriott Autograph Collection hotels, this comes highly recommended for a genuine 5* star experience. The reception staff are obviously fluent in English and very professional. There is a nice pool area with a wave pool, sauna & steam room.
The first time we stayed here, we were upgraded to a suite, which had a spectacular sea-view terrace running the length of both rooms (perfect for champagne time while relaxing and watching the sunset!), and was the height of luxury inside. Soaking in the huge bathtub after a long ride before dinner was bliss!
Translated as “House on the dune”, this is a huge 5* hotel complex, enjoying stunning views across the North Sea, and with its own private access to the beach and beach club.
Don’t be put off by the fact that you have to ride up a hill to get there (after a 30 mile journey!). It’s well worth it! With our waterproof camping bags in hand (which we carry on the bikes as our overnight bags), we walked straight into the beautiful marbled lobby of a bygone era. It’s easy to imagine that Richard Burton & Elizabeth Taylor have stayed here, as have many of the rich & famous over the years.
After a shower and change for dinner, we had washed the road off us and were ready for a glamorous dinner at the Beach House…
Eating & drinking
Breakers Beach House, Koningin Astrid Boulevard 5, 2202 BK Noordwijk
Part of the Grand Hotel Huis her Duin, the website states that this is the finest beach house in Holland. It’s accessible both from the beach and directly from the hotel. Please note, there are quite a lot of steps down to the beach house, so flat (but sparkly of course) sandals are recommended!
The restaurant itself is spacious and elegant, with pale wood, nautical designs, and large windows which make the most of the sweeping ocean views. There is a large open fire and cosy sitting area, perfect for after dinner drinks.
The food and wine were delicious, and it was the perfect relaxing end to the day. So far this has been my favourite dining experience in Noordwijk
I recommend making a reservation for dinner before you go to Noordwijk, as Breakers gets very busy.
Beach Club O, Kon. Wilhelmina Boulevard 106, 2202 GW Noordwijk
Beach Club O is part of the Hotel van Oranje, and we dined here on our 2nd trip to Noordwijk. It’s very different to Breakers, with more of a party atmosphere (but still not overcrowded or too loud)
On their website, they compare themselves to beach bars in Miami, Saint-Tropez and Ibiza, so that’s more the crowd they want to attract. Although I didn’t think the food was comparable to Breakers, it was still well presented and tasty, and if you’re looking for a more lively place for cocktails and dinner this is for you!
There are plenty of restaurants to choose from along Koningin Wilhelmina Boulevard, for all tastes, so it’s worth just heading out in the evening along the seafront and seeing what takes your fancy. We had some lovely and pretty authentic Italian food at Fratelli. However, the service took ages, so not recommended if you’re in a hurry!
on our 3rd visit to Noordwijk, we finally made it to this incredible museum, stopping on our way back out of town. It’s set in a series of actual bunkers which the Germans built in WWII as part of the Atlantikwall, which ran from Norway up to the French/Spanish Border. You can read about the museum on the link above.
Our knowledgeable Dutch guide was one of the volunteers who helped to literally dig the bunker back out of the dunes by hand (they had been filled in with sand decades ago to prevent accidents after local youths decided they were a pretty fun place to hang out!).
The volunteers have put in an incredible amount of effort to return the bunkers to how they would have looked when they were in use. There is another part of the bunker which is also going to also be restored, but at the moment they are waiting for the correct permissions, as there is a protected species of bat living down there.
I’d really recommend visiting the Atlantikwall Museum if you have time and are interested in WWII history. As it’s cold, damp and in very close spaces, not recommended if you are claustrophobic, and a good idea to have a jumper with you!
Top tip: Noordwijk is especially popular with both German and Dutch tourists for a long weekend break, so can get incredibly busy during bank holidays or school holidays. To avoid higher hotel rates, and make sure you can get a dinner reservation, it would be a good idea to avoid these dates if possible!
I hope this gives you some useful info if you’re planning a bike (or road) trip to Noordwijk. In my opinion it’s a must see place if you’re visiting Amsterdam or the Netherlands, and it’s somewhere we will return to as much as possible.